The best way to judge “how good your last trek was” is the post-trek refreshing signs from body. Generally, after a 2 day hike across Sahyadris, one may not be at the best level of enthusiasm and agility in day to day life. And that’s certainly lives on for a couple of days or so. But look at me today, just returned from this 2 day trek to Bhivpuri region Near Karjat section of main-range, and I’m already penning down my thoughts about it right away. It goes without saying that, just the news of Liverpool’s fantastic win at Anfield over West Brom made it even more relishing. They had won 4-1!!
A bit
off topic really, but I never stop talking about beloved Liverpool (the only
true Reds).
Back to Sahyadris..
So there was not much planning to do for this trek except
food part, which’s essentially game-changing. Counting on no. of people joining
in for the trek, we had a really easy menu on hand. 1 time “gharcha Daba” then
some snacks for evening chai, followed by easy to cook & delicious
“Khichadi” (it’s a rice-cereal preparation to be spiced up and boiled to make a
combination rice), then on to morning tea & some poha. Looking at the list
of things to be taken, divided by # of people coming, we added 2 tents to pitch
out for night in the loads.
On Friday, the day before starting for trek, couple of them
dropped out. Never mind, It’s a routine! We even discussed amongst couple of us
that we’ll continue for the trek even if we are reduced to two/three of us.
Come Saturday, we boarded the train to Karjat. As always there was a twist in
trail. Dr. had some emergency to answer and he missed the train, fuming why we
let him behind alone. So way out agreed was, till the next train he’ll finish
his b/fast, and till he arrives half an hour later, we’ll finish our b/fast.
After munching on the Arabic(?) missal pav at Karjat, which
had the oil from the whole Gulf of Muscat in it, we left for Humgaon in a six seater
(8 of us <> in a 6 seater). At around 0945 we made it to Humgaon which
was about XX kms from Karjat. In Humgaon, there’s a huge beautiful Quadrangular
reservoir.
About reservoir..
Parvatibai, Wife of Sadavshiraobhau built it in his
remembrance. He died In battle of Panipat. It was built at a cost of 75,000 INR
Circa. It was then built to quench the thirst of traders/porters who carried
shit load of goods to and from Pune region. Note that, even then, a toll of 200
INR circa was collected annually before BorGhat was constructed and maintained.
Today, As usual, it’s in a sorry state of Negligence with
locals unaware (rather not much aware) about. And being careless runs in our
blood, Isn’t’ it?
Asked a couple of villagers about the route, who explained
the route in details. One of them even got ready to accompany us to put us on
right beginning. Here, I must say, success to any trade route lies on finding
the opening of it. It was 1020 by now. And to much experience, the ascent from
Kokan side is often deceptively mixed in rice paddy. Despite of having the
route described, it just lost in the well flourished post monsoon foliage.
Leaving us no choice but to take a steep “Strobilanthes
callosus (Karvi)” laden slope. And much to our relief, after some skillful
negotiations we scrambled on the actual path. By this time we had gained a
descent 1/5th height via this exhausting but calculated short-cut.
5 past 11. We hang on for some time taking a look around. It
was vast expanse of Sahyadris to East with nothing but only paddy fields across
North and West. Bhivpuri Power station was visible right in front. After a
small photo session, we began. Now back on trail, which is covered thickly
enough to protect from October Oven. With A gradual ascent and steady rhythm we
make it to the second hump on the ridge. Its here we came across local boys who
told us the “teen-Taaki” are around 15 minutes from current halt. By now, It
was a walk of good 1 hour or so. Lunch Time!!
Munching on the tasty Home-made varieties of Paratha, we
restarted at around 1315. Now, with reduced burden on our necks having finished
almost 70 odd parathas and 1 KG of shrikhand! Lunch was taking toll on us. Sky
was partially cloudy making way in between to all guns firing Sun. This was a
no Win-Win situation at all! Just had our tanks filled with yummy food, Sleep
was on our mind and eyes too, Weather not much helping. Some of us started to
fall prey to all these tactics. Further an hour on steep climb
of the nose, we absolutely dived in the grass for a much needed rest. Time was
on a fast forward mode now. It was 1445 in no time! And we suddenly felt the
need to hurry up to the Ghat Top and make it to Kusur.
But Kusur Ghat had other Ideas. Having Re-instated us with a
15 mins rest and Tang, we started the final gradual push towards the col of the
Kusur Ghat. It looked at a distance but a lesser of a climb. But then, as soon
as we traversed the summit on our right, it took a good 20 mins ascent to reach
Ghat Top! At top too there was neither nothing spectacular happening nor had a
view to die for. Just vast plains of grass and bushes. Finally made it to tar
road on the banks of Thokarwadi Dam( Andraa Lake) by 1545.
 |
| Reservoir on top of Kusur Ghat, just outside Kusur Village.. |
After a good half an hour rest we began our walk towards the
Sawle village which lays around 8 kms from here. In the meanwhile, as per
public consensus, Suhas went ahead to Khandi village to arrange for a pick-up
vehicle. Khandi lies about 3-4 kms from Kusur. This walk was getting tiresome,
with new ideas creeping to our dull minds about where to stay, how to stay and
all. Having carried 2 tents, some of us were understandably eager to pitch tent
outside village closer to a water source. But this to some of us, was like
walking an extra mile to get out of the village and most importantly closer to
start of next day’s route. Managed to spot some beautiful creations of Mother
Earth. “Greater Coucal” or Bharadwaj and “Golden-fronted
Leafbird”. Preferred to sit on roof of the Jeep’s driver cabin. Had
unforgettable views of Andraa Lake backwaters. Some fascinating spots for
camping there.
On Reaching Methalwadi of Sawla, realized that I forgot
Harshad’s backpack on top of Jeep. With some timely help from Locals, rushed
back to Khandi and picked the bag which was intact & untouched. This drive
to and fro Khandi village, is something absolutely enchanting one for me.
Personally, felt so near the forces of Nature that evening. Surroundings filled
with Green-Yellow paddy fields, dancing on the gust of the approaching storm.
Jungle on the other side had a dark smile on its face with Sky putting a
mesmerizing show of colours. Shades of Blue, Orange, Pink filled the sky.
Thunders intermittently reminding of my beloved ones and showers almost making
it impossible to drive. What a display of rage! I’ve never felt myself so close
to being on the set of “Twister”. Whoa..!! Luckily or unluckily didn’t have the
Camera with me. But it made sure; these moments stay in memory for eternity.
By 1945 hrs, we made it back to village school where team
had camped for Night. It was a sensible decision to stay put in shelter of
school rather than that of tent when Sky’s ravaging thunders every now and
then! Had a sip of tea, much needed!! Proceeding to cooking for night, we
reviewed the day and took a glance at the map for the day that awaited us. Over
to Hot Veg. Soup and came the news that our Chicken Curry’s ready. No doubt,
this was only possible cause of initiative (Agaupana) taken by Dr.
Accompanying us was a local guy who facilitated the serving.
Having relished on that poor chicken (you’ll go to heaven, Don’t you worry), we
went out for a walk to accommodate our over-capacity tanks. Pan was a treat
post that Chicken and Khichadi combination. Thankfully, rain and thunders had
subsided and moved on (still cloudy though, so NO stars.. L).
Morning greeted us with Andra lake still in tight grip of
clouds. By now, most of the passerines had started to look for their brakfast J J. So do we!! Taking
stock of inventory for Poha, we realized that our Inventory manager had been
more than miser. We’ll took walks towards the backwater turn by turn for
“samajik Vanikaran – Community plantation”!
Chandra
made tasty Poha out of whatever was available. At around 0930 we wind up our
stay in school. Asked local villagers for a route to descend down in Kokan. As
per our info, there are 4 different routes starting from Savla village
connecting Ghat with Kokan. We chose Fenadevi. This one was just adjacent to
the village. Had a well trodden route all the way to the base. In less than
Half-an-hour we stood at this magnificent viewpoint, from where Kokan was
visible around 2500-3000 feet below. Admiring the glory of Sahyadris, little
did we knew that, we’ll be descending a very well maintained and seldom paved
way all the way to Kalakrai village. It is gentled nestled on the lap of
Sahyadri.
Having
descended a quarter of the ghat, we paused for a while. A mama was descending
down to Kalakrai carrying a can full of kerosene. Upon enquiring, he responds,
“its just a matter of some hours and I managed to save some money as well as
stay mobile.” It stunned us. He was easily aged 80+ (he later confirmed 84!).
Goodness me! This was truly audacious. Its not the first time we've come across
such incidents. It often happens on these remote, less trodden routes, that we
come across numerous counts of Mankind which is doing such stuff regularly,
even at an odd age of 80 above, Just to stay Alive, Survive! Leave’s us
pondering on do we really care about the ease of life that we live into? The
abundance of resource that we’re having at our dispersal on throwing some
thousands?? Certainly it does teach us the money worth, respecting human life
& most importantly awaken us about how much we owe to our this Mother,
Mother Earth.
Mind
having taken all these bruising turns, Now it was turn to bruise our hands.
Yes, we arrived at the Junction of routes, which was a lovely banyan tree with
branches coming down high from about 20-25 feet. We started to descend the path
to Mograj village which was supposed to be destination for a Neral bus in about
an hour’s time. Locals were working hard to maintain the road damaged post
monsoon. They do this every year about same time, Post Monsoon!
Here's the trail that we followed.
Map of Kusur ghat trail..
and of Fenadevi Ghat..
Fellow trekkers who didn't mind accompanying me were..
- Saurabh "Appa" Joglekar;
- Chandrashekhar "mhatarya" Damle;
- Suhas "patrakar" Joshi;
- Saurabh "Karhade Agari" Agate;
- Harshad "commando" Vaidya;
- Dr. Somnath "Rushitulya" Dare;
- Sujay "Arab" Rane;
- Myself.
Five fun-facts from this trek:
1. All of us trekked together after almost a year long :)
2. Even in these days of filthy inflation, a 2-day trek can be summed up in 540 Rs per head :))
3. Did much-needed over-haul to our chocking arteries-veins-aortas.. :)))
4. Added 2 more beautiful ghats in the bag some 190 more to go.. :))))
5. Found ourselves a good trail for cycling.. :D
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